The Audiophile Thread

[Firth]

Also if any piece of equipment is plugged into a different outlet from the rest, that can create a ground loop. Inducing hum throughout the entire system.

Ideally all of the power cords should plugged into a common protection device in order to prevent damage from power line spikes caused mostly by storms which damage the lines and transformers of the power utility. If one does that the likelihood of hum is lower. The nice thing about modern equipment is that it is so efficient, including power amps. When AC was developed, it was truly the most efficient because voltage could be stepped up via transformers resulting much lower currents and losses. Today however, if everything was reworked (sorry Tesla the father of AC) it would be high voltage DC because DC can be efficiently converted to lower voltages and the most efficient equipment runs on DC. This sources of hum would be eliminated and the hazard of AC in the home.

[progmatist]

Ideally all of the power cords should plugged into a common protection device in order to prevent damage from power line spikes caused mostly by storms which damage the lines and transformers of the power utility. If one does that the likelihood of hum is lower. The nice thing about modern equipment is that it is so efficient, including power amps. When AC was developed, it was truly the most efficient because voltage could be stepped up via transformers resulting much lower currents and losses. Today however, if everything was reworked (sorry Tesla the father of AC) it would be high voltage DC because DC can be efficiently converted to lower voltages and the most efficient equipment runs on DC. This sources of hum would be eliminated and the hazard of AC in the home.

Fun fact: the reason Edison was dead set against AC wasn't because DC is in any way superior. It was because he had only a high school education, and couldn't understand the complex math involved with AC power.

[chalkpie]

https://soundstagehifi.com/index.php...c-sb-turntable

Here is my TT Trane. It doesn't have auto return, but its a magnificent piece of audio. I have a Ortofon Quintet Red MC cartridge which requires a phono stage/preamp that can handle a low output moving coil, but its so worth it. On a beautifully recorded LP, this is my ultimate musical experience. My next upgrade will be a more expensive cart, maybe a Quintet Bronze or a Hana SL MC. Money talks.

[3LockBox]

Not sure this is the right place, but I'm looking to replace my Rotel 3000 (keeps breaking down)

Could you explain "breaking down"? I'm stupefied at the prospect of spending 'that kind of money' on a product that's supposed to be the reason why you spend 'that kind of money', i.e. "you get what you pay for". It must sound AWESOME enough to tolerate unreliability I guess.

[chalkpie]

My Rotel RCD 951 is 20+ years old and is still amazing. HDCD equipped too. The tray doesn't always open on the first try, but it eventually does. Killer cd player, and I'll be quite bummed when she goes.

[Zeuhlmate]

My Rotel RCD 951 is 20+ years old and is still amazing. HDCD equipped too. The tray doesn't always open on the first try, but it eventually does. Killer cd player, and I'll be quite bummed when she goes.

Another 'new' second hand or spareparts
https://www.hifishark.com/search?q=Rotel+RCD+951

[chalkpie]

Another 'new' second hand or spareparts
https://www.hifishark.com/search?q=Rotel+RCD+951

Cheers. Its one of those things....is it worth repairing or just get a new player. It sounds so damn good that I see no reason to part with it, and would contemplate a repair if needed. The other thought would be an Audiolab transport and Schiit Bifrost DAC, but that combo would run $1300.

[Garyhead]

While not "Audiophile" yet....MIT researchers have developed a loudspeaker that could have many uses:

https://news.mit.edu/2022/low-power-...udspeaker-0426

[Zeuhlmate]

Cables - anyone?

Change of cables can do small miracles to enhance the sound of your hifi.
They are not cheap (buy them seond hand), but it surprised me how much more I got out of my system.

[progmatist]

^^ Or simply make sure all speaker wire connections are good and tight. That too can make a world of difference.

[Zeuhlmate]

^^ Or simply make sure all speaker wire connections are good and tight. That too can make a world of difference.

Yes, goes whithout saying.
I changed from Van den Hul Magnum ( thick silver speaker cables) and Silver Sonix Air Matrix (signal cables) to Nordost Cables Red Dawn (speaker) Nordost Heimdal 2 (signal) and got so many more details, 3D-effect, and microdynamics I thought would have required new loudspeakers or amp to get. Actually I biwire the speakers with Nordost and Tellurium Q silver at the bottom end.
Still not cheap, but much cheaper than buying a new amp or speakers.

I borrowed them at first, but the result was overwhelming, so I had to ...

[Trane]

^^^
Haven't got to the bi-wiring yet (the extra cables are bought, though), because if my speakers are designed for it (two pair of connectorss), it's not the case of my amps.

^^ Or simply make sure all speaker wire connections are good and tight. That too can make a world of difference.

Also make sure that the red and white connectors are connected togethernetween amp & speakers. This may mean that you'll have to mark one of the wire of the cable on both ends. This is also valid between different elements of the hi-fi chain (if only to preserve the stereo effects correctly - as originally designed by the engineer), even before speaker of speaker cables. The quality/nature of cables & good connections between the elements also have their importance.

[Zeuhlmate]

^^^
Haven't got to the bi-wiring yet (the extra cables are bought, though), because if my speakers are designed for it (two pair of connectorss), it's not the case of my amps.

You can terminate the cables with spades (Like this or similar https://www.av.com/Accessories/QED-S...es-4-Pack/4ARI)

Also make sure that the red and white connectors are connected togethernetween amp & speakers. This may mean that you'll have to mark one of the wire of the cable on both ends. This is also valid between different elements of the hi-fi chain (if only to preserve the stereo effects correctly - as originally designed by the engineer), even before speaker of speaker cables. The quality/nature of cables & good connections between the elements also have their importance.

If you miss this. You will counter phase the signals, get a very spacey sound and the bass will almost dissappear.

[Firth]

You guys can have fun with your cables. I’ll just use my high resolution microphone based calibration for the whole system including the room.

[Zeuhlmate]

You guys can have fun with your cables. I’ll just use my high resolution microphone based calibration for the whole system including the room.

We do. Tweaking the old school gear is half the enjoyment...

[Dave (in MA)]

Also make sure that the red and white connectors are connected togethernetween amp & speakers. This may mean that you'll have to mark one of the wire of the cable on both ends. This is also valid between different elements of the hi-fi chain (if only to preserve the stereo effects correctly - as originally designed by the engineer), even before speaker of speaker cables. The quality/nature of cables & good connections between the elements also have their importance.

Or do an out of phase rear speaker intentionally as in Eno's el cheapo surround system:

https://preview.redd.it/b6egq8p8sak1...=webp&5a404c2d

[chalkpie]

You guys can have fun with your cables. I’ll just use my high resolution microphone based calibration for the whole system including the room.

Wow, sounds amazing. Actually, no it doesn't.

[Zeuhlmate]

Or do an out of phase rear speaker intentionally as in Eno's el cheapo surround system:

https://preview.redd.it/b6egq8p8sak1...=webp&5a404c2d

B&O sold a box that did this.
I have it somewhere, it was great when I was young - poor mans Quadraphonic sound.

[Firth]

Wow, sounds amazing. Actually, no it doesn't.

Arrogant opinion, no observations.

[strawberrybrick]

[QUOTE=Dave (in MA);1118333]Or do an out of phase rear speaker intentionally as in Eno's el cheapo surround system:



I have a speaker in the ceiling that I wired like this. I use it mainly for listening to AM radio (sports).

[Dave (in MA)]

Has anybody ever tried to refoam their speakers? Is it something that a novice might be able to do?

[Firth]

Has anybody ever tried to refoam their speakers? Is it something that a novice might be able to do?

I used a kit to refoam my Snell speaker/woofer. Because those drives were unique I didn’t think replacing them with the unique crossover would work. However I now have a left refoamed driver and a right replaced driver. This sounds ok for a basement set of speakers to exercise with.

[Zeuhlmate]

Snell speakers are 'particular' in that respect.
Refoaming will alter the sound.
I have the Snell A II and had to buy new woofers a couple of years ago.
The foam was allready mostly gone, but my son had a party with his friends and smoked them.
https://www.atomichifiandtv.com/snell-acoustics.html is the only place who have spareparts etc. for Snell speakers.

Some speakers provide foam kits and it isn't that difficult to do it.

btw - Snell (and refoaming is often mentioned) : https://www.facebook.com/groups/216875186099

[Dave (in MA)]

Thanks,
I think I found a kit that matches. I'll see what I can manage.

[Firth]

Snell speakers are 'particular' in that respect.
Refoaming will alter the sound.
I have the Snell A II and had to buy new woofers a couple of years ago.
The foam was allready mostly gone, but my son had a party with his friends and smoked them.
https://www.atomichifiandtv.com/snell-acoustics.html is the only place who have spareparts etc. for Snell speakers.

Some speakers provide foam kits and it isn't that difficult to do it.

btw - Snell (and refoaming is often mentioned) : https://www.facebook.com/groups/216875186099

These speakers Snell type E II. Snell had some pretty interesting designs in the day. I just read the Absolute Sound review of the type A. Where I think these were an improvement over the A, was the wideband woofer with port, front midrange to treble driver, and a rear firing very high range tweeter. Surely the midrange to treble driver by itself would beam the highs and certainly the cross over rolled off the high end of that driver. The reflections of the rear firing tweeter at the very high end would smooth out the spatial response. At 16 KHz the highs are basically random in phase and combine in power after reflection with the high end from the front driver. The mids and treble which matter for coherency were perfectly aligned since they came from the same driver.